Weaving Overshot

Overshot is a weave structure which may date back to ancient Persia, although there isn't a lot of documentation pointing to its origins.   It earned it's place in history early in colonial America, though, when it became fashionable for coverlets (also known as coverlids) which were used as a combination blanket and beadspread.   The weaving of overshot coverlets remained popular through the 18th and 19th centuries, with various patterns being popular in various parts of this country.   After the advent of the Jaquard loom, more complicated patterns, often depicting floral motifs or eagles, gained in popularity,  but the simpler overshot patterns which could be produced at home on a 4 shaft loom remained popular among home weavers,  particularly in Appalachia. 

Overshot is a weave structure consisting of a pattern yarn which skips (overshoots) designated warp threads to create various designs.   Between each row of pattern yarn there is a thinner 'tabby' yarn which is woven in tabby (plain weave--over one warp thread and under the next) which holds the pattern threads in place.  Traditionally, the tabby ground would be woven of handspun linen, or later in mill spun cotton once it became easily available,  in it's natural color or bleached white.   The pattern yarn was usually wool,  most often hand spun and dyed.    Most often the pattern yarn was dyed with natural dyes--dark blue from indigo or logwood,  red from madder or cochineal, or brown from walnut hulls being most common.

I became interested in traditional overshot patterns when i was learning to weave in the late 1970's.  Recently several other volunteers here at the cabin became interested as well.   There is currently a flurry of overshot weaving going on in a variety of patterns and materials--from more traditional materials and colors to easy care modern acrylics in decorator and even holiday colors.   :-)  We are weaving smaller projects than coverlets, though.  Most of our recent overshot projects have been intended as table runners or dresser scarves,  and there has been discussion of shawls, scarves and bags as well.    Stop by and see what we're up to.   :-)